If you want to learn to surf, one of the first things you have to do is learn how to catch a wave. It is not as easy as paddling out, catching the wave and surfing back in toward the sand. Surfing takes patience, timing and balance. With that in mind, pick a small, surf spot that will allow you a chance to practice. Paddle out toward sea to the lineup and sit up on the board. Wait for a wave. Make sure you straddle the surfboard so that your bottom is right below the center-point of your board, allowing you to maneuver the nose to the left or the right. It is imperative to be able to pivot in any direction to paddle to a wave. Once you find a wave that you are ready to take, turn the nose of your surfboard toward the beach, lie down and paddle. It is important to position yourself near the "peak" of the wave, which is where it is the highest and will break first. If you start too far out in the water, the wave will not be ready to break and if you are too close to the beach, the wave will break too quickly on you. Staying focused on the wave, lean your weight forward and paddle in the direction of the wave so that it overtakes you right before the wave breaks. Continue paddling as hard as you can as the wave lifts you and your surfboard up from the water. While it might feel natural to lean back so that the nose of your surfboard does not going under water, it will only hinder your momentum and ability to catch a wave. As you are leaning forward, lift your chest so that your chest is just above the center of the board. By now, you should be descending down through the channel of the wave. As you feel the pull of the wave, you will begin standing up as you hit the flat water in front of the wave. Standing, however, is a lesson for another day. So remember: Be patient. Every wave is different with different breaks. Timing is very important. If you go too soon or wait too long, you will miss the break. Balance is everything. If you compensate too far forward or too far back, you will miss your chance to catch the wave. While experimenting with body position, start further back and work your way forward. It is better to miss the wave that it is too pearl, or have your nose go under the water. Just like anything, learning to surf takes time. Work on catching the wave before you move on to standing or anything else. It takes patience and practice because not every wave is the same. Take notes on each wave you miss and work to correct it. Remember to observe the rules of surfer right-of-way while you work on catching your wave. Always allow other surfers to catch a wave when appropriate. Another one will come along. So grab your board, paddle as hard as you can and catch that wave. |